18th century spectacle size . . . Antique spectacles made between 1727 and 1833 vary little in width. There was no standard size. Most makers had their own idea as to the correct width. That width tended to be between 4 1/4 and 4 3/4 inches. In addition, many frames were made to order. Makers would do whatever their customer requested. Round lenses vary in size from one inch in diameter to more than two inches. Although, lens diameter of 1 5/8 to 1 3/4 are most common. Benjamin Martin, a London optician, started the trend to narrow width and small lenses when he published a book on spectacles in 1756.
Click here for an example of Martin's spectacles with small lenses.

19th century spectacle size . . . The mass production of spectacles began in 1833. From 1833 to 1880 most spectacles measured between 4 and 4 1/2 inches wide. I have see a few pair that measure 3 3/4 inches wide and a few pair that measure 4 5/8 inches wide. These few are the exception, not the rule. I now have in stock nearly 1000 19th century spectacles. Ninety-nine percent of these measure 4 to 41/2 inches wide.

The most common lens shape is oval followed by octagon and rectangle. Rectangle lenses have rounded corners. Lens size is the same width and height as the human eyeball. It was believed, probably because of Benjamin Martin's work, that small lenses and narrow frames were better for the eye.

Civil War spectacle size . . . The most common spectacle in use during the Civil War had oval lenses and starlight temples. The oval lenses were eyeball size and the frame width varied between 4 and 4 1/2 inches. These spectacles were not designed to stay on the face while marching, running, or riding. They were intended for use as a reading aid while seated. Soldiers who needed glasses while riding or moving about tied their spectacles in place with string or ribbons. The most common frame material was steel. Gold and silver frames were expensive and worn only by officers and merchants.

Abraham Lincoln had a pair of common steel frames. Lincoln bought his from a general store in Washington, D. C. for $2.75. The store owner never cashed the check in order to keep Lincoln's signature. Lincoln's spectacles are owned by the Huntington Library in San Marino, California. Click here to see images of these frames.

Lincoln also owned two pair of gold frames, one most likely made by McAllister and the other was made by John Burt and William W. Willard. These two pair are on display at the Library of Congress in Washington, D. C..

Cable temple sizes . . . Eyeglasses with cable temples that loop behind the ears were introduced by American Optical Company in 1885. This improvement in eyeglass frames was made possible by the introduction of Bessemer Steel (spring steel) in the late 1860's. This invention is credited to an American Optical Company employee who trained Morgan horses as a hobby. His straight temple eyeglasses would not stay on his face. He had a designer at American Optical make a pair of temples with the new spring steel. They worked so well that American Optical Company patented this new temple design. They called the new design "Riding Temples" and targeted customers who needed eyeglasses while riding a horse or moving about out of doors.

Replacement Cable Temples . . . The cable temple was introduced in 1885 and remained popular until after WWII. Cable temples were first used on a style of frames called Riding Temples. Next, they were used on the Windsor style. The Windsor style is one of the most popular styles ever made. They remained in constant use from 1880 until 1960 in various countries around the world. They were popular in the US from 1880 until 1929. The stock market crash of 1929 put many of the makers of this style out of business. The cable temple was next used on a style of wire rim frames called Marshwood. The Marshwood style was introduced in 1921 and remained popular until 1950. The US military issued this style to troops during WWII. The military code for the style was "P3".
Vintage replacement cable temples are impossible to find in useable condition. I found a small manufacturing company willing to hand make replacement cables in small quantities. The quality of the workmanship is excellent. The temples are made to the exact specifications as the originals with two exceptions, the diameter of the pivot hole and the placement of the stop. Original cables can have one of three size pivot hole sizes depending on the maker and country of origin. The swing stop on original frames can be located in the ten o'clock or the eleven o'clock position depending on the maker. Click for more information.

Slipper temple sizes . . . Eyeglasses with slipper type temple arms became popular in the late 1940's. Slipper temple eyeglasses can be put on and removed with one hand. It takes both hands to put on cable temple frames. Slipper temples can be straight or they can bend down slightly behind the ear. Most slipper temple arms measure 4 to 4 1/2 inches from the hinge to the bend. The entire length, if stretched out, is usually 5 1/4 to 6 1/2.


Windsor Eyeglass sizes . . . The Windsor style was popular from 1885 until 1929 in the US. The style remained popular in Europe and Japan until after WWII. This style is being reproduced because of its popularity. We carry a selection of original Windsor glasses suitable for holding modern prescriptions. Original frames are available in gold, gold filled, and Roman Steel. Windsor frames can also be covered with an early type of plastic called "Zylo." Zylo colors are black, brown, tortoise shell, and a dark blonde. The two measurements required for a proper fit are frame width across the front and temple length.

Pince-nez styles and fit . . . Pince- nez frames come in two styles, C bridge and hard bridge. The "C" bridge style uses the pressure from the "C" shaped bridge to hold the frames in place. The hard bridge style frames are held in place with two butterfly shaped pads that are spring loaded. The only measurement needed for a proper fit is bridge width. The most common bridge widths are 16mm, 18mm, 20mm, 22mm, 24mm, and 26mm.

Matrix Frame . . . The glasses used in the movie Matrix are made by putting modern sunglass lenses into antique Pince-nez frames. I have a supply of this style Pince-nez frame. You must have the sunglass lenses installed in your area. Any optical shop can do this work.

Rimless glasses . . .. Rimless frames came in two styles from the 1920s - 1950's, center mount and Ful-View. The temple arms of the center mount style are in line with the nose pad mounts. The temple arms of the Ful-View style are mounted near the top of the lens. The Ful-View mount style was the result of the popularity of the automobile. Drivers glancing out the side of their eyes to check oncoming traffic at an intersection had a 'Full View' unobstructed by the temple arm. Replacement lenses for rimless frames can be cut to any size needed. The two measurements required for a proper fit are bridge width and temple length.

Semi Rimless frames . . . Rimless frames came in two styles from the 1920s - 1950's, 2 screw, and 4 screw. The most popular lens sizes was between 40 and 44mm. A few size 46mm frames were made. The three measurements required for a proper fit are bridge width, frame width, and temple length.

Wire rim glasses . . . Metal framed glasses that were popular in the 1930's - 1940's. These frames came with either round or ovid lenses. Most wire rim frames are gold filled with 1/10 12K yellow gold. White gold frames cost more to make and are a little harder to find today. The three measurements required for a proper fit are bridge width, frame width, and temple length.

Early Plastic (Horn Rim) Eyeglasses . . . Between 1900 and 1930 manufacturers experimented with the just introduced plastics as a material for eyeglass frames. The generic name for this style is "Horn Rim" because the new plastic was used to simulate horn, tortoise shell, baleen, and other natural materials. Many of these new plastics were unstable. Frames made from these early plastics turn bridle with exposure to light and are easily broken. Because of this, few useable examples have survived. I always have a few plastic horn rim frames in stock. I sell these frames with the understanding that they may break in the process of installing new lenses. They may also break after being worn and exposed to light. Collectors who want an example of early plastic frames in their collection should display these frames in an area out of direct sunlight. The three measurements required for a proper fit are bridge width, frame width, and temple length.

Harry Potter . . .